Posts from the ‘reportage’ Category
GHETTO – Rome’s Jewish neighborhood
The beauty, the grace, the style, the ruins. Rome’s ghetto is like an ancient city within an ancient city.

The ‘fontana delle tartarughe’ – turtle fountain – is easily one of Rome’s most beautiful and sits in Piazza Mattei, on one edge of the ghetto.

Tip of the iceberg: this ancient column on Via del Portico di Ottavia continues under the pavement for several meters, to where the ground level was in Roman times.

This unassuming little door leads into what many swear to be Rome’s best bakery. Closed on saturdays.

We’re young, we’re handsome, we’re well-dressed, it’s springtime and we’re in one of the most beautiful cities in the world – of course we’re happy!

Physical barriers determine the ghetto’s outer limits. Unwieldy, these are designed to allow wheelchairs through but not motorcycles.
I am not a historian, so for hard facts about Rome’s Jewish ghetto you will have to look elsewhere. All i can say for sure is that history has conspired here to create one of Rome’s most charming areas. The close-knit sense of community exudes from every corner: people chatting away, laughing, smiling, sitting, strolling…
The ghetto’s run-down look goes back to some papal bull (i’ll say!) forbidding Jews from owning houses. And you’re obviously not inclined to maintain what you don’t own.
The remains of ancient Rome literally jut out from every wall or break through the surface of the pavement.
Finally, one mention goes to the local eateries, catering to both Romans and skull-capped tour groups from New York. The food in the ghetto is easily among the best Rome has to offer. And if you can make it here in springtime, you can’t possibly leave without trying one of rome’s proudest and oldest recipies: i carciofi alla giudia, literally ‘Jewish style artichokes.’
Pictures taken at lunchtime on may 14th.
Alessandro Ciapanna
GIOLITTI – rome’s best gelateria
the narrow alley is packed solid with kids of all ages happily slurping away. getting a cone at giolitti’s gelateria is a true roman tradition well over 100 years old.

the annoying part is you got to stand in line twice: once to pay for your ticket, and then to exchange your ticket for your ice cream. obviously, complications sometimes ensue

many people just get their cones and then plunk themselves down on the little tables outside, but the waiters don’t like this

it’s probably impossible to lick a cone and preserve a dignified expression at the same time… and she doesn’t seem too happy about this

artsy doorknobs and gilded g’s on giolitti’s glass door reflecting the crowds of kids slurping their cones in the alley outside
few would argue that italy has some of the world’s best gelato. and rome being rome, it has attracted italy’s most talented over thousands of years. so it is fair to say that rome offers some of the best that italy has to show off. today’s photo essay was taken in rome’s most celebrated gelateria, giolitti, smack dab in the heart of ancient rome.
alessandro ciapanna
































